Stock tires with 650whp is dangerous. I'll say that. I ended up going to Nitto drag radials for daily use because I hate not being able to put the power down.

 

I'd say over 600rwhp is going to lead to some traction issues regardless. Personally, I think you can get by with an excellent street tire out back (MPSS or RE-11's) and just deal with the fact that you have to peddle it a bit in 1st and 2nd. You can always daily drive on a drag radial as well, but then you're stuck with replacing them every 5-8k miles and fearing for your life every time you get caught in the rain lol

 

I have around 600 (M6), and RE-11's.. if the streets aren't cold, they hook pretty decent from a roll... I am upgrading to more HP, so am also going with DR's on this round.

 

My Hankooks will spin from a 55mph roll in 3rd with no mods but a 2.55 and intake. Good luck!

 

When I bought my car it had Hankooks on it. I thought they were horrible. They almost killed me coming off a clover leaf and nailing it at 70 going in a straight line. For some reason people seemed to think these were good tires. Same thing with the Kumho Exstas with my 2002 Camaro SS back in the day.

OP, go with the RE11s or Super Sports.

 

Damn, my all season Michelins don't even do that and I'm putting down 555/553! Remind me to stay away from the Hankooks when it comes time to replace my tires.

 

Obviously all dyno's are different but from 50mph in 50 degree weather when I had only 510rwhp the tires would spin. When I went to 620rwhp (these numbers are from a low dyno mind you) and ran from 50mph with NITTO'S NT05's in 30-40 degree weather...they would spin a little! Answer to your question...I wouldn't be caught dead without a drag radial past 550rwhp!!!

Have Hartline chime in here...he has a good story for you!

 

Answer to your question...I wouldn't be caught dead without a drag radial past 550rwhp!!!

Have Hartline chime in here...he has a good story for you!

I learned a hard lesson. I had just made 771 rwhp thirty minutes before I wrecked. I was unable to hook up at any speed below triple digits. My new car has drag radials on it and will always have then on it.



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Appreciate the replys. Thanks guys. I'll probably end up toning it down just a bit then.

 

I'll probably end up toning it down just a bit then.

You're not going to make many friends if you keep talking this kind of nonsense!!!

 

I have MT 305/35/19 DR on 19x10.5" wheels, from a dig without a heat up they'll spin hard. 2nd gear if you drop the pedal they hook up very well. With a heat up on the street they'll hook if you roll into the throttle.

 

^^^This is my experience at my current power level (except I have them on the stock wheel).

 

I run the Continental DW tires in the stock size and with 638 rwhp boost only my car is a dream to drive. I don't even have any trouble hooking from 50-60 when I spray the car.

 

Yeah - I bet tire size and selection make a lot of difference. I'm going with a 305 on 11" rears on my wagon. I'm hoping that with a little more weight over the rears on the wagon that it will help out a bit. But over 600 at the wheels is some serious power. In the auto with it's lower ratios, it's gonna be tough in 1st without some really sticky rubber.

If you REALLY want street tires but need all the traction you can get - and cost isn't a big issue, maybe try a dedicated streetable track tire like the PZero Corsa or Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2's. They are softer and grippier than the Super Sports or PS/2's. Granted they'll wear out faster and cost a hell of a lot more, but for me I can get them in the 265/35/20 fronts and 305/30/20 rear sizes that I need.

I am really hoping my build will put down 670-700 at the tires and I will see how much the stickier track tires help. I plan to put a set of those on and see how they do. Granted rain will be more of a problem in those but in the hot Houston summers I bet those tires do REALLY well all around - they should hold a decent amount of power (but certainly not as good as a DR), but they should also brake and corner like mad, too.

My build is about 5-8 weeks out - I will post back with my results.

 

So it's sounds like with a good tire setup traction isn't a huge issue. I'm going to look into some bigger wheels and go from there.

 

Well - don't forget if you want traction from a dig, you need more sidewall - i.e. smaller wheels for more flex. And with DR's, wider isn't always better. A good DR - at least based on what I've learned from the guys here, isn't always about width. You need the right compound, good sidewall flex, and a good track.

Now if you're just looking for a little street fun and using the same tires for regular duty, driving family around, etc - then that might be different. That's my deal - wife rides around with me to dinner and the car is a daily driver. So for me, some sticky street tires are about all I can really do without dedicating a set of wheels just to race day. I'm just going with a soft, sticky compound tire and I will just have to eat the high cost and frequent replacement intervals.

I'm not on 20's for the traction...for me it was just about appearance and a little better/sharper handling. But you'll find really good track and strip setups rolling on 17s or 18s easily and doing VERY well.

 

Theres a guy with a modded Z06 at my work that has those Michelin pilot cups front and back. They have a tread wear index of 80 and are currently bald as slicks, but must stick like crazy.

 

I have the Nitto 555 Extreme ZRs in 20"s and I spin hard from a 60 roll.

I'm laying down 675 at the wheel. I'm looking and asking the same questions for myself. Good luck!

 

+1 for the Continental Extreme Contact DW. Will spin 1st and second, but hooks solid on rolls with about 600 to the tires.

 

It seems some of the guys in warmer climates have different results so that plays a part in the traction obviously but also the dyno numbers noted on some of the posts are probably from Dynojets and just aren't the same as Mainline dynos or even mustang dynos so that will play a big part in it as well. I have ran guys that knew that I made 620 on the mainline dyno and they swear that 620 is more like 700 on dynojet! I personally do not think it is 'that' much of a difference but this is what I have been told by guys who ran others others claiming my lowish number!

 

Bridgestone RE-11 FTW! Once they warm up, they hook up awesome from a roll. And even when they do break loose, they do it gracefully and maintain good traction while spinning. I think you would be amazed at how good these are for a street tire. I think you could hold 600rwhp in 3rd fairly well with these tires. They handle well too.

 

I was daily driving my sedan on RE050 305s and went to the RE11 305 rears - did not regret it one bit. They hook up pretty good at 550rwhp especially when warmed up and have lasted longer than I could have imagined. They even look good on the rim compared to the RE050 as the RE050 looked too big. I was driving 1500 miles a month with my RE-11s in all the crazy snow and rain we've been getting as well. Just replaced the fronts after 13 months and ~20k miles. I'm switching to the Mickey Thompson 305 DRs on the next set of rears since I won't be worried about rain and adding a lower pulley, cam, nitrous as I try to break into the 10s.

 

Re-11 summer tire in snow? I was out on a nice day and got caught in snow on ps2 and nearly had to call a tow truck.

 

Anything over 575rwhp is a waste on street tires. 625rwhp+ forget it.

I never understand the awesome builds we do only to stick to street tires......pointless and frankly dangerous if you can't hook the power.


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Yup, what he sez

 

I was thinking on switching to Pilot Super Sport tires 255's and 295's back for DD. I currently have the NT05r's 305 on the rear, but man I keep getting nails on those suckers, thinking on getting an extra set of rear wheels for the DRs to use them at the track. Any feedback on the Michelin 295 SS? I know they won't hook as good as the DR's but I'm pretty sure they'll last longer.

 

There are soooo many variables that come into play here. When hooking any amount of power up, suspension, compound, sidewall, and weight distribution across the tire all have to work together as you know. But something that often isn't discussed is the pavement you're driving on (of where you're at)

For instance, I'm in Roswell. Our pavement is pretty hard stuff with lots of short horizontal ripples and grooves to give the tires something to bite on, yet when I travel to Artesia (only 30 miles away) the highway and town pavement becomes this soft almost glass like surface finish that even my stock AWD Denali truck will spin on from a dig.

I know it sounds like a hunk of bullshit but go around your town or wherever you'll be driving and an analyze the surface finish the road engineers have given. For water drainage or ice build up you'll see different roads made differently. By doing this, you can pick out a street tire and tread pattern with the grooves to that will perform better.

A soft compound will be of upmost performance always, also with running the suspension on tour mode instead of sport. Allows more weight distribution as I understand it.

 

I am having trouble hooking from a roll and don't have 600 rwhp. I am running 305 Super Sports on OEM rims and am going with MT DR's this spring ASAP. Don't use TC on any further than comp mode, the TC will remove power.

 

My fix for traction from a dig is going to be the Pro-EFI setup, car is getting lower pulley and BB exhaust on my coupe this week and then in 2 or 3 weeks we'll install the new ECU.
I can't wait to check out the traction control and other features. Plug and play kit for the V.

 

Does anyone know much about Bridgestone potenza S001 ? Choices are dwindling for 305/30/20 lots of bridgestones and pirellis .. Mich PSS is on back order grrr

 

Don't know much about the S001's, but for street tires, the MPSS are the gold standard at least for now. I managed to get a pair of the 305/30/20 rears for my car - only had them a few weeks on an un-modded car before it got wrecked so I can't say how they do with a modded car. But initial impressions were really good. Ride wasn't too bad for a 20 inch tire and the grip and handling was amazing for a 300 treadwear rating. They were quiet as well. Great all-around tire, definitely the best you can get from that perspective.

Honestly, if you are going to run a 305/30/20 rear, the MPSS is worth waiting around for. If I had to go with something else, I think the PZero would be my next choice - even though they've been around a few years, you are still seeing this tire on even some very high-end cars like Bentley, MB AMG's, Audi S/RS cars, and more. They are quiet (when new), brake really well, handle well, and have amazing dry grip and pretty good wet grip. The only reason the Super Sports beat them is that the MPSS matches the PZero in every way, and then it lasts longer and has better wet traction. But outside of those two items the PZero is a winner in my book.

I learned a hard lesson. I had just made 771 rwhp thirty minutes before I wrecked. I was unable to hook up at any speed below triple digits. My new car has drag radials on it and will always have then on it.

Heard this too many times. I'm going to heed this warning like you won't believe once my car gets the treatment. Even with DR's, adding a couple hundred HP to an already powerful beast is just asking for trouble if you don't exercise restraint and learn to master the newfound power safely and incrementally. First time I went to GForce Mike said, "Yeah - some guys come in and leave with a 700hp car and it scares them to death - they literally just hang up the keys and never drive it again." I found that strange but now I'm seeing exactly what he was talking about.

 

771 rwhp is a lot of power and with the auto unexpectedly kicking down on you I can see how you can get out of shape in a hurry.

At my current power I have no problems running street tires. I find that I can usually catch traction in 2nd gear pretty well as long as its 50+ degrees out.

First gear is worthless without drag radials though.

I never fully disable traction control though, I double tap and leave stabilitrak on...that feature should save you from crashing usually.

 

Unfortunately it's not so much the high HP our cars make but we also make almost equivalent Torque numbers which is why we have the traction problems we do.

If we are making 750RWHP... You can be sure we are right around 730-740RWTQ...


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